Anna and Jonathan are living the African dream. They live in a paradisiacal Mozambican city and have a little daughter who is nearly two.
We ask them as locals to guide us through three magnificent destinations in the corner of the world they call home.
By Ana Roque
Photography courtesy of Anna Orlowska and Jonathan Darby
Anna Orlowska and Jonathan Darby “are a couple in their early thirties with a 20-month-old daughter.”
Anna used to be a primary school teacher, but she got involved in more personal creative projects when she became a mother. Jonathan is an artist and graphic designer.
They’ve lived in Mozambique now and are passionate about this country.
We asked them to guide us through a tiny slice of the wonder that is Africa. Inhambane and Maputo in Mozambique, and Kruger National Park in South Africa were the destinations we picked.
Let’s get to know them!
Anna and Jonathan live in Inhambane, a coastal city in Mozambique that is also the provincial capital.
Anna tells LEMON that this place is also known as ‘terra de boa gente’ or land of the good people” in English.
“That is exactly what it is and that is exactly why everyone who visits falls in love with it. Not only is it absolutely stunning, but the people are also truly charming.”
LEMON Magazine: How would you describe Inhambane?
Anna Orlowska: Inhambane is a relaxed, quiet town on the bay of Inhambane. The waterfront is lined by mangroves, where you can typically see flamingos and beautiful sunsets. There are old churches and Portuguese buildings to visit. Coconut and cashew vendors line the streets. The central market is lively and colourful, offering crafts, fresh local produce and basic meals.
What drove you there?
It was the prospect of great diving and underwater wildlife for me. My partner Jonny [Jonathan] was led here when he helped start a charity-based art project with local children.
How is life in this African paradise?
We live in Tofo [a small town in Inhambane]. Generally, we spend our days surfing and relaxing. I used to dive but now we spend a lot of time in the sea, whether it’s swimming, surfing, boating, or walking on the beach.
Our life revolves around the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. Our daughter has grown to love collecting shells and spending time in the tidal pools on the beach. We often go on local camping trips as well. The community here is amazing as well.
What was the best thing about this place you call home?
The people, their laid-back nature, the fresh seafood, the marine life, and the place itself.
Are the beaches as good as they look on the Internet?
The beaches are beautiful and sandy, lined with coconut trees. The turquoise waters are warm and crystal clear. Not too many tourists reach this destination, so you generally have the beach to yourself.
I guess living in such a beautiful place means having friends over to visit occasionally. Where do you recommend they stay?
I would highly recommend Sentidos Beach Retreat in Barra, which offers high end, tasteful beach villas. The resort is great for families as it includes a restaurant and pool, a spa, a gym, and an activity center that offers a range of different activities.
Talking about friends…What souvenirs can they take home?
There are currently many local artisans in Inhambane. The local craft markets in Tofo and Inhambane offer a wide range of crafts from jewelry to masks to capulana (traditional fabric).
You can visit the Boa Gente factory to see how virgin coconut oil is pressed and take some products home. Several different artisans currently create natural soaps and other products using coconut oils.
There’s also a craft shop at the Petrol station selling local honey, woven mats, home décor, candles, etc. Also located here is Libombo, a community operated ceramic shop selling products created with the local red clay.
The recycling center, ALMA, also offers crafts made from recycled items.
Where to eat in Inhambane:
TOP family activities in Inhambane:
Not to be missed in Inhambane!
Dathonga gallery
“The Dathonga gallery is located in the center of Tofo and is a must-see. They have beautiful art displays by local artists as well as good quality crafted objects for sale such as woven baskets and bags, traditional masks, and home décor.
The gallery is surrounded by a beautiful garden with a bar.”
Zinave National Park
“There are a few National Parks in Mozambique that host wildlife. There’s Gorongosa Park, of course, but also Zinave National Park, which is one of the lesser-known ones.
It’s more difficult to reach as you need to take a 4×4 for most of the journey past Vilanculos. However, once inside, you’ll find stunning natural bush and vegetation, as well as a wide range of animal life including elephants, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, hippos.
The accommodation is rustic (large canvas tents) overlooking the Sabie River.”
Maputo is the largest city in Mozambique and is also the capital of the country. Anna and Jonny “always spend a few nights” there when they pass through the city.
This is the place where their daughter was born, and it will always be special for the family.
We’ve all heard about Maputo. What makes it special?
Maputo is a vibrant, up and coming city. A fusion of old Portuguese aspects and Mozambican vibes. It’s warm, full of acacia trees and the buzz of city life, all near the sea.
What experiences do you recommend in the city?
The FEIMA plant and craft market is great for a weekend stroll. Botanical gardens are lovely as well. We always enjoy a walk along the seaside boulevard with some fresh coconuts to drink. We also recommend visiting the Franco-Mozambican cultural centre for some live music and crafts.
We have to talk about the food… What can we eat in Maputo?
You can find any kind of international cuisine in Maputo but we highly recommend the seafood. It’s fresh and locally caught. Of course, there are always seasonal fruit vendors selling tasty pineapple, mango, passion fruit, depending on the time of year.
Tell us what is the best and the worst thing about Maputo…
The best thing about this city is the liveliness of it all. There is a vibrancy among the people, and it is fun to just walk along the boulevard and people watch. It is challenging to get around the city without a car and the streets are super busy so driving is not easy.
It is suitable for a family vacation?
I think Maputo is a decent family destination for a couple of days. We highly recommend visiting the Maputo Special Reserve just outside of the city to see some wildlife, including elephants.
Must sees in Maputo!
Where to eat in Maputo
This is South Africa’s most amazing safari destination and one of the most popular nature parks in the world. It could not be otherwise.
“Everyone hears so much about this park… It definitely meets expectations as one of the world’s best in terms of seeing wildlife.”
For those who’ve not had the fortune to go, Anna explains that “Kruger is a huge park covering many different landscapes－rocky cliffs, bush, grasslands, rivers.
The diversity of plant and animal life is stunning.” For her, each visit is “a different and unique experience. The wildlife is so abundant and although there is no guarantee you will see the big five each time, you are sure to be fulfilled in some way each time.”
Anna and Jonny have visited Kruger Park many times since they moved to Africa. “We try to visit at least once a year.” It is “definitely” a ‘bucket list’ experience for them.
“We always stay at Tamboti tented camp. They have large canvas tents with beds, a barbecue, fridge, hot showers and private patios overlooking the Tambavati riverbed. It feels wild and we always enjoy the wildlife that visit the camp, especially at night. The sounds of the bush are amazing.”
Visiting Kruger National Park, the couple has some favourite activities:
“we recommend doing a dawn and dusk drive, either with your own car or with a game viewer. The drives with the game viewer are special because you are in an open vehicle and high up, which gives you a better view. You also have the advantage of riding with a park ranger who can spot and point out things that you may normally miss. Dawn and dusk are the best times to see animals. Also, having breakfast or lunch overlooking the Sabie River at the Lower Sabie rest area is a nice thing to do.”
For people with kids, Anna offers an extra tip. “Kruger is absolutely a must with the family. Especially with kids older than two as they can help spot animals!”
Besides this park, they have also visited a few other South African places. “We have visited St. Lucia, a town where hippos walk the streets, the vast and majestic Drakensburg mountains, Hluhluwe game park in KwaZulu Natal and the Jane Goodall chimpanzee reserve. Also White River, Nelspruit, and the cities of Durban, Johannesburg and beautiful Cape Town. And finally, the wild Karoo Desert.”
Unlike most of Mozambique, “the safest” Anna “has ever felt in any place in the world”, South Africa “is a place where you have to be more vigilant. Robbery is common so making sure you act smart while visiting here is important.
However, most tourist destinations are fairly safe and well taken care of.”
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