Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor took an early slot in the Milan calendar (4:00 PM on September 23) with a collection that fused sharply tailored suits and elaborately beaded dresses inspired by Indian aesthetics.
Though not all coverage has yet dived deep into his palette or cuts, his presence in the official schedule signals the growing fusion between South Asian motifs and European couture.
Simone Bellotti made waves with his debut for Jil Sander, bringing crisp, light silhouettes and minimal structure back to the house’s DNA.
Bellotti reintroduced subtle cuts: peek-a-boo slits, open bodice panels, and technical folds, balancing restraint with intrigue.
Runway imagery and show notes confirm: Jil Sander’s show was staged at its Milan headquarters, paying architectural homage to the nearby Castello Sforzesco.
While in many reports Alberta Ferretti leaned into fluid draping and bold, romantic hues, her general mood seemed anchored in elegance and movement.
Missoni, still revered for its knit legacy and bold patterns, returned in this season with stronger accessories and prints that channel a bohemian spirit.
Milan this season felt like a battleground of legacy and new direction, especially as Italy faces industry headwinds.
The mood: wearable reinvention. Designers are blending architecture and fluidity, strength and softness.
Beauty trends on the Milan runways leaned into luminous skin, flicked bobs, graphic edges, and vintage-inspired updos.
The return of tailoring (with nuance), the elevation of print traditions, and bold creative leadership moves (like Bellotti at Jil Sander) underscore a season that’s less about spectacle and more about identity.
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